Supergeil, Detroit

The server said, “Our food would be described as ‘Turkish street food from Germany.’” 

“What do you recommend,” I asked. 

“Well, for sure, the Döner.”

Lamb and Beef Doner, Supergeil, Detroit

The lamb and beef “döner” is a thick, fluffy sesame pide stuffed with chopped meat, fresh cucumbers, and tomatoes. It’s delicious. 

He said, “So I’ve got the döner, lutenitsa, deviled eggs, a kalamtata martini, a Castevets, a Candyman, and a Philly Cheesesteak. That it?”

“Yep.”

“You want me to bring fries for the whole table?”

“Now you’re talkin’.”

Lutenitsa, Supergeil, Detroit

The interior of Supergeil in Corktown is fitted with the sort of furnishings that instantly spark nostalgia—the look that seems to define this part of town. Pendant light fixtures and tufted booths conjure memories of restaurant throwbacks, shabby chic collections adorn tables and walls, retro dinnerware invites a comforting glow to the table. 

The dishes here are interesting and international, new and different, yet maintain the character of a homecooked meal. Dishes like the doner sandwiches offer practical options, while lutenitsa and deviled eggs aren’t the typical lunch go-to’s.  

And the lutenitsa is remarkable. Puréed peppers become a vivid, brick-red dip teeming with fire-roasted sweetness, sprinkled with crunchy walnuts, slick chili, olive oil, and bright drops of pomegranates. It’s easily mopped-up with torn pieces of warm za’atar pide—flatbread covered in spicy za’atar seasoning and olive oil. 

Fries, Supergeil, Detroit 

The Paper Crane, Supergeil, Detroit 

The Castevets, Supergeil, Detroit

Our second round of drinks was a Paper Crane and a Date with the Doctor. The Crane was perfect with the tartness of lemons, rich bourbon, and a small origami bird fashioned from an orange peel. The Doctor: I couldn’t stop putting my nose in the garnishment. A Rosemary sprig needled through lemon peel was comfortingly, therapeutically aromatic. 

The Za’atar, Supergeil, Detroit 

The Philly Steak, Supergeil, Detroit 

The fries are as much a feast for the eyes as for the stomach: a heaping bowl of crisp, golden potatoes, drizzled with spicy, red scharf and garlicky, amber aioli, interwoven with emerald leaves of oregano. 

The Deviled Eggs, Supergeil, Detroit 

A Philly steak is good with grilled peppers and gooey cheese, and the deviled eggs are fine.